[Emerald Fists] WIP chainfist terminators.

No post from last week, was in Vegas for a bender.  I'm now recovered and I've done some more work on my chainfist terminator squad.  The assault cannon guy is there so that when I make a 10 man I can have two assault cannons w/ 3 storm bolters, and 5 chainfists.  A superheavy's nightmare!  I recently decided that since I really like a lot of the forge world sculpts for HQ units but don't want to paint 30 captains, I'd start using them for sergeants and such (like my command squad).  In this case I'm using commander cullin (sp?) from the red scorpions as my sergeant.  It's a cool dynamic pose too.  He's pretty blinged out though so his fluff will probably have to state that he's a very old and decorated marine but refused command or wasn't cut out for it.  I think Arjac rockfist is similar in the space wolves.

Comments

  1. Are you green stuffing the emblems on? Or is that painted brass?
    Like the idea of swapping in various hq's as sergeants and such. Will add a lot of flavor to the army.

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    1. The shoulder emblems are forgeworld pads. There's brass on a few pieces, like the shoulder crest thing on the assault cannon guy, the right most chainfist, and the sergeant's chest. At least that's what is visible in the photo. Etched brass is awesome, I actually just ordered 3 more sheets today. It's really easy to work with so I like to add it a lot.

      I agree about hq's etc. Someday I will make an honour guard squad out of chapter masters.

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  2. Do you have any recommendations on getting the etched brass to adhere to shoulder pads? I have some black templar etched brass, but can never get it to conform properly to the shoulder pads.

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    1. Greg, do you have a cutting board? One of those soft green mats? Using either that, or something even softer (not too soft), place the round brass piece face down and then push the rounded end of a paint brush into the back of the brass. As you do this and move the top around, the brass will begin to become concave. It may take a lot of pressure (and works better with something a bit softer than the green cutting mat, like a harder mouse pad). This should give it a round shape that will conform to a shoulder pad. I've never had it be an issue that the detail was lost.

      For something way better (and with pictures) look here http://gravengames.co.uk/how-to-work-with-etched-brass/

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    2. Also I usually gently scratch up the back of the brass and the surface it is going on to give the superglue something to grip.

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  3. Thanks for the links and excellent tips! The scratching the back is a good one, as is the rounded end of the brush!

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